In which I spend a rather beautiful Saturday eating a somewhat disappointing lunch.

Joe Green, 2A Mitchell St, Northcote. Ph (03) 9481 5554

New cafes seem to be spawning like tadpoles in the primal hipster ooze of Northcote. One of the newest is Joe Green. I visited for lunch on a radiantly sunny autumn day with Dan and J.

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I really liked the decor; it’s quirky, without looking like it’s trying too hard to be quirky.

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Unfortunately that’s where the love ended for me, on this visit.

We ordered whitebait to come out first as a starter – but they weren’t as hot as they should have been if they were cooked to order, and the little fishies weren’t very crispy.

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There was nothing to dip them in. Usually fried whitebait will come with aioli or mayonnaise or something. “Oh well, that’s weird,” we thought, and ate a few of the lukewarm fishies anyway. (Well, I was hungry.)  And then a creamy tartare turned up five minutes later, after we’d given up on the whitebait.

The rest of the food turned up reasonably promptly; we ordered the Siciliana pizza, the pasta with lamb ragu, and the radicchio and cos salad.

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I probably would have liked the pizza if it didn’t have quite so many capers on it.  Capers are salty little buggers, and in my opinion ought to be used sparingly, like anchovies.

None of us liked the pasta, and we didn’t finish it. To me, the sauce tasted like bottled tomato sauce.

The radicchio and cos salad consisted of about eleven pieces of lettuce in a bowl. It was $6.50 and I felt ripped off. I guess it’s not like it was false advertising – it was, indeed, radicchio and cos – but seriously, $6.50 for that?

Service was friendly, but very patchy, and they weren’t busy.

Apparently the coffee is good here, according to Dan; they use Coffee Supreme. We didn’t stick around to try it.

I hope they can improve the food and service here, it’s a great location and space.

Joe Green on Urbanspoon

Pearl Oyster is a cafe in either Preston, Thornbury or Northcote – depending on whether you ask the White Pages, Urbanspoon or Threethousand.com.au. Wherever it is, it’s one of the recent breed of suburban hipster Nanna’s-kitchen-chic brunch-crowd cafes that are sprouting up all over the northern suburbs – think along the lines of Mixed Business, Red Door Cafe, APTE and Palomino.

We decided to venture there for brunch at about 10.30am on Saturday. Pearl Oyster is a fair bit larger than the others mentioned above, but even so we still had to wait a few minutes to get a seat, and the first available were at the bar that overlooks the kitchen. It was pretty noisy over the clanging pans and hissing coffee machine, but hey, at least it’s a seat.

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The waiter brought us menus and two water glasses right away (although no water), and took our coffee orders – they use Coffee Supremo’s organic Fair Trade coffee, FYI. We were sitting right in front of the cakes, which looked very tasty:
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The menus are very cute, presented inside old school textbooks:
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… however we both were tempted by the specials board – I ordered the special French toast, and J. ordered the “Upper East Side”.

And then we waited. And waited.

Our coffees took 21 minutes to arrive. (I know this from the time stamp on my camera.) I don’t know what you’re like in the mornings, but I get pretty antsy and cranky if I haven’t yet eaten anything or had any caffeine. After 21 minutes sitting there hungry and waiting and looking over a noisy kitchen and watching everybody else’s food go out, I was about to turn into the Incredible Hulk. I don’t mind a bit of a wait for food so long as I can at least get a coffee.

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The tiny kitchen and 2-group coffee machine were flat out, so it’s not like the wait was due to slacking off. I think the problem is simply that their kitchen and coffee capacities are not enough to serve the number of seats adequately. Of course, cafe owners don’t want to have to turn punters away, so it would seem that the more seating the better… but unless they have the capacity to serve all those seats, they’re not actually doing more covers, they’re just making them all wait longer.

Anyway, the food also eventually arrived (33 minutes after ordering). Fortunately it was worth the wait. My French toast was made from thick sliced brioche and came with mandarin curd, stewed raspberries, thick cream and pistachios:
Pearl Oyster

The curd was lovely and tangy and so were the raspberries – it was pretty intense and very sweet but I really liked it. Sugar buzz!!

J.’s Upper East Side was sourdough rye toast, spread with cream cheese and layered with smoked salmon, dill and caperberries, with lemon on the side:
Pearl Oyster
Again, really good. Very high quality ingredients and a nice simple dish.

Overall, Pearl Oyster had really good food and pretty good coffee; but I couldn’t recommend it for a weekend brunch, unless you have more patience than I do. I’d definitely return, but on a weekday when it’s not so busy.

Pearl Oyster on Urbanspoon

I am going to let you in on one of my very favourite (if unconventional) breakfasts in Melbourne: breakfast at the movies.

I go to the Palace cinemas in Westgarth, which is my local, but you could do it at any cinema that offers food beyond popcorn and Maltesers. (Unless you really want to eat popcorn for breakfast.)  There’s usually a session at around 10.15 or 10.30, which still allows for a bit of a sleep-in; I get there about five minutes before the session’s due to start and order a latte and a piece of panettone for $6. The Westgarth makes surprisingly decent Lavazza coffee, and the generous wedges of panettone are always fresh.

Cinema 1 is the best for movie-breakfasts, as it has the comfy high-backed seats with little tables in between each seat pair where you can put your coffee and plate. (The smaller cinemas 2 and 3 just have cup holders so you’ll have to have your plate on your lap.)

The early sessions are usually pretty empty, unless it’s a kid’s movie. So you get the cinema almost to yourself, along with a lovely hot coffee and delicious Italian pastry – what glee! Why line up for the crowded 8.30pm movie session with all the other suckers?! Or have to wait for a table at brunch?!

Interested to hear if any other cinemas are suitable for movie breakfast?