Boire - 92 Smith St, Collingwood. http://www.boire.net.au/
After reading about Boire just about everywhere that matters (including The Age Epicure and Gourmet Traveller), I was desperate to try this new French wine bar. It’s just a few doors down from Gigibaba, which I adore, so I had high hopes.
I rocked up at about 7.15pm on a Friday night, expecting it to be chockers after the hype – but no, there were only two tables taken (and EVERY SINGLE PERSON in there was female, which was just weird). I thought maybe the empty tables were reserved for imminent bookings… but no, they were just empty, as I was told to sit anywhere I liked. Water in nice wine glasses was brought out immediately.
There are no printed wine lists – it’s all written in chalk on the black-painted right hand wall. (Black walls used as blackboards = So Hot Right Now. I think it must be council regulations to include them in any new cafe/bistro fitout.) I like this idea in theory, but they’ve written it so big that I have to get up from my seat and walk from one end of the room to the other to be able to see both the reds AND the whites. Might be a good idea to have a printout of the day’s wines on each table.
For a chalkboard wine list, there’s not much by the glass – about four reds and four whites, and a champagne. They are not cheap glasses either, starting at $11 with the average about $14-16. I expected it all to be French, given that they are puritanical about other aspects of French authenticity (e.g. you can’t have milk in your coffee); but no, there were Macedon Ranges and New Zealand wines on the list.
I ordered the champagne (at $16 a glass for an obscure house). It arrived already poured. This is a small thing, but I think a wine bar with table service ought to pour the wines at the table. Particularly a $16 glass of wine.
We were planning to have dinner elsewhere but were getting peckish so had a look at the food options, also written on the blackboard-wall. The only snack-ish things were walnuts and cheese (non-specific blue or washed-rind), so we ordered those. The walnuts arrived, in their shells, in a bowl with a nut-cracker:
My partner loved this, he was cracking noisily away having a merry old time. For me, if I order a bowl of nuts, it’s probably because I’m hungry… and I get really cranky when I’m hungry, particularly if I can’t get at the food quickly! Pistachios are one thing, but I did find the walnuts frustrating.
My other problem with Boire is the decor. Something is not quite right about the space. It looks like a restaurant, but definitely isn’t one – there’s not enough food on the menu (two entrees, two mains, two desserts) – and somehow it’s too empty, not cosy enough to settle in for a few drinks. Maybe it’s too big, maybe it’s the lighting, maybe it’s the tables and chairs, maybe it’s the fact that the bar counter is very small and right up the back. All I know is that we were ready to leave after one drink.
I think Boire has a lot of potential and I really wanted to love it; I love the concept of a simple and rustic French wine bar. I’ll be interested to give it another try in a couple of months to see if it’s any different.