Melbourne is arguably the food capital of Australia.
Why then is all the food and drink on offer at our major airport so appalling?!

I’ve been travelling quite a bit this year, mostly for work; and inevitably the odd flight delay here and cancellation there have resulted in me having to spend a bit of time at Tullamarine. (Time that unfortunately I’ll never get back.)

I’ve tried eating just about everywhere here, and it’s all spectacularly depressing. Even the food chains (McDonalds, Hudsons etc) have been squaloriffic, when usually you could at least count on them to be clean.

Does airport dining have to be hideous? Sydney International now boasts some actual foodie cred, with outposts of city establishments Bambini Wine Bar and Danks Street Depot. Terminal 5 at JFK in New York boasts all sorts of proper gourmet eateries.

I’d like to see Melbourne Airport lift its game. Have you come across any other airports that have decent food options for the food-loving traveller?

In which I spend a rather beautiful Saturday eating a somewhat disappointing lunch.

Joe Green, 2A Mitchell St, Northcote. Ph (03) 9481 5554

New cafes seem to be spawning like tadpoles in the primal hipster ooze of Northcote. One of the newest is Joe Green. I visited for lunch on a radiantly sunny autumn day with Dan and J.

joegreen06

I really liked the decor; it’s quirky, without looking like it’s trying too hard to be quirky.

joegreen01

Unfortunately that’s where the love ended for me, on this visit.

We ordered whitebait to come out first as a starter – but they weren’t as hot as they should have been if they were cooked to order, and the little fishies weren’t very crispy.

joegreen02

There was nothing to dip them in. Usually fried whitebait will come with aioli or mayonnaise or something. “Oh well, that’s weird,” we thought, and ate a few of the lukewarm fishies anyway. (Well, I was hungry.)  And then a creamy tartare turned up five minutes later, after we’d given up on the whitebait.

The rest of the food turned up reasonably promptly; we ordered the Siciliana pizza, the pasta with lamb ragu, and the radicchio and cos salad.

joegreen04 joegreen05 joegreen03

I probably would have liked the pizza if it didn’t have quite so many capers on it.  Capers are salty little buggers, and in my opinion ought to be used sparingly, like anchovies.

None of us liked the pasta, and we didn’t finish it. To me, the sauce tasted like bottled tomato sauce.

The radicchio and cos salad consisted of about eleven pieces of lettuce in a bowl. It was $6.50 and I felt ripped off. I guess it’s not like it was false advertising – it was, indeed, radicchio and cos – but seriously, $6.50 for that?

Service was friendly, but very patchy, and they weren’t busy.

Apparently the coffee is good here, according to Dan; they use Coffee Supreme. We didn’t stick around to try it.

I hope they can improve the food and service here, it’s a great location and space.

Joe Green on Urbanspoon

In which we eat some rather tasty sandwiches and OD on macarons.

EARL Canteen, 500 Bourke St (Little Bourke St courtyard), Melbourne. www.earlcanteen.com.au

I had arranged to meet my brother Dan for lunch today, so it seemed like an excellent excuse to visit the newly-opened EARL Canteen – a gourmet sandwich bar that opened last week in the little courtyard underneath MoVida Aqui at 500 Bourke St.

(I should mention here that the twittoblogosphere is very excited about EARL, because the people behind it are Jackie [Eating with Jack] and her partner Simon – self-confessed “food nerds”, both with quite the Melbourne hospitality pedigree. Not to mention Duncan’s macarons- but I’ll get to that in a minute.)

EARL Canteen is pretty much a sandwich bar – but not as you know it. Sandwiches, yes, but “gooor-mett” sandwiches.  I ordered the “Bacon Rage” ($13): thick cut Otway bacon, spicy kimchi and green leaves on ciabatta.

03 Bacon Rage

I confess that my main motivation for ordering this was my glee at the idea of a  #momofukurage-themed sandwich. Fortunately it was also delicious – the spicy kimchi added a lovely zing and heat to the salty-sweet bacon.  Also had a coffee to accompany my meal – they use Coffee Supreme beans, and make a very pleasant latte.

Dan ordered the Wagyu Meatball ($12.50): Moondarra wagyu meatballs in sugo, with zucchini pickles and shaved parmesan on a baguette.

04 Wagyu Meatball

Again, very tasty, although the meatballs could have been heated up a bit more – they were lukewarm in the middle. And not a sandwich that I’d try and eat on a lunch date, it’s a bit hard to get one’s mouth around without getting meatballs up one’s nose. (A classy look.)

To finish, we had to have macarons “By Duncan”. Duncan writes the Syrup and Tang blog, and is a macaron guru. (In fact I can thank his blog exclusively for teaching me how to successfully make macarons. I use the Italian meringue method, btw.)  Duncan is now also not only writing about macarons, but making them – and exclusively for EARL. That’s a big WOO and HOO for the macaron-loving people of Melbourne!

05 Macarons

We tried “Clancy Dark”, finger lime + dark chocolate; and “Yannic Intense”, salted caramel. ($2.50 each.)

I should confess at this point that I never really understood the appeal of macarons before. Yes, I’ve baked them (after seeing Zumbo’s on Masterchef last year), and they’re a nice challenge for a try-hard baker like me… but they never tasted that great, and for all the trouble they took, they weren’t as popular as, say, sponge cake.

Duncan’s macarons? Finally I get what all the fuss is about! I’m now inspired to have another crack at baking them myself. So light and delicate in texture, but very intense in flavour. Macarongasmic.

My only quibble is that they are very small, so the macarongasm is over far too quickly.

Highly recommend EARL for a tasty weekday lunch in the city. In fact I wish to bob there was somewhere like this closer to my work.

EARL Canteen on Urbanspoon

“Hey, do you wanna go to Spain?” J asked me about three weeks ago.
“Yeah, all right,” I said. “When shall we go?”
“How about May?”

And so it was that we came to plan a last minute trip to Europe. As you do. And it’s less than 3 weeks away now!

So, gentle readers: where shall I eat? We’re spending a few days each in Barcelona, Seville, Granada and San Sebastian; then finishing up with two days in Paris, just because it doesn’t seem right to fly all the way over there wihout squeezing in some Paris-time.

Your recs, por favor!