Following on from my post earlier in the week, I assembled a team of tasters (Dan, Ali, Timmeh and Maria) and a selection of fourteen different hot cross buns to conduct The Official Tasting.

IMG_2246So as not to be influenced by any bun prejudices, we decided to conduct the tastings blind. For consistency, we also decided to taste the buns un-toasted and un-warmed. Butter was provided, and the tasting panel were advised that if they elected to have butter, they had to have it on every bun. (I elected to skip the butter.)

J set up the buns on numbered tasting stations (right), so he was the only one who knew which was which. The rest of us went round and tasted each bun, wrote down comments and gave each one a score out of 10 – giving each bun a total score out of 50.

The contenders ranged from organic artisan bakeries right through to Bakers Delight and Coles. The results were intriguing, to say the least!

And now, in order of highest overall score:

THE WINNER:

Natural Tucker ($2.40, 136g), with a score of 41.5/50.

We all really liked this – the bun had good density but a soft doughy texture, lots of juicy fruit and a good spice flavour. A pretty-looking bun, too.

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2nd Place

Babka ($2.20, 104g) with a score of 36/50.

A simple-looking bun, we all agreed that this bun had a very good flavour – I think due to the finely grated peel mixed right through, rather than being in large pieces. It had a soft light texture, pretty glaze, and was quite a pale colour compared to many of the other buns.

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3rd Place

Ferguson Plarre ($1.80, 93g), 33/50

This rated quite well overall, but I wasn’t a fan personally. The others liked that it had lots of fruit and peel, but I found its texture very dry and flaky, almost stale.

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4th Place

Sugardough ($2.90, 80g), 32.5/50

Ali was the only one who didn’t like this, commenting that she thought it was “bland”, but everyone else loved the flavour and fruit. The glaze was also marked highly – not many of the buns had such a nice shiny top.

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5th Place

Bakers Delight ($1.30, 73g), 30.5/50

Well well well! This was a surprise. The Bakers Delight entry crept in under the radar – it was a very simple soft bun with no peel, that didn’t attract big marks from anyone but managed to get a solid 6/10 across the board. Not bad.

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6th Place

A Treat of France ($2.20, 76g), 30/50

A pleasant “textbook” hot cross bun with a lovely texture, although all agreed it could use a bit more spice.
(Can’t find a website or anything for this place, I think it’s new.)

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7th Place

Loafer Bread ($2.60, 93g), 29.5/50

This bun had quite an unusual springy/chewy sourdough tex
ture, which most of us liked but thought was not very hot-cross-bun-esque. The flavour was also very interesting, we thought we could taste some ginger in there and maybe some nutmeg? Not your traditional hot cross bun but good in its own right.

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8th Place

Baker D. Chirico ($2.50, 83g), 28.5/30

I was really surprised this bakery didn’t rank higher (which makes me all the more glad we did the tastings blind). Comments were positive about the fruit and spice, but less so about the texture. Personally I think this is the sort of bun that really doesn’t work eaten cold, I think it needs toasting and lots of butter. (Maria gave this bun a Sad Face :-(   – which as a primary school teacher is about the worst criticism she can offer.)

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9th Place

Coles ($0.60 per bun in a 6-pack, 90g), 26/30

Bet you didn’t see that coming – we certainly didn’t! Maybe Messrs Calombaris and Stone are onto something. The general consensus was that bun was pleasant and inoffensive, if not particularly exciting. Timmeh and Maria both commented though that the cross on top was too hard and not pleasant to eat.

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10th Place

La Madre Bakery ($2.00, 137g), 25.5/50

The second-heaviest bun of the day, La Madre’s buns were very dense and had a strong sourdough flavour. They had lots of spice and good fruit, but none of us were big fans of the weight and texture. I suspect this is the sort of bun that just doesn’t work if you eat it plain – it really needs toasting and butter.
(Disclaimer: the nice people at La Madre delivered the buns to me free of charge for the tasting.)

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11th Place

Dench ($2.70, 97g), 25/50

O Dench, I love you so… but your hot cross buns were disappointing. Maria thought there were not enough sultanas; Dan and Ali thought it had too strong an orange peel flavour; I thought it was a bit bland. And not very pretty, let’s face it.

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12th Place

Cavallini ($2.50, 95g), 23.5/50

I’ve always liked Cavallini’s buns in previous years, but this one was not great. It had quite an unusual eggy texture and a very sugary glaze – you could actually see crystals of sugar all over the top. Maria, Timmeh and Ali all thought it was too sweet. I thought it needed more fruit.

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13th Place

Crumbs Organic Bakehouse ($3.00, 150g), 22/50

The most expensive AND the heaviest bun of the day. Crumbs’ buns were huge, and with nice-looking crosses and glaze, but they weren’t popular – we all thought it tasted more like a loaf of sourdough bread (admittedly with a few sultanas in) than a hot cross bun.  Ali did comment that she thought it would be nice toasted with some jam.

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14th Place

Abbotsford Convent Bakery ($1.50, 91g), 6/50

Oh dear. Nobody had anything good
to say about this bun.  I was very disappointed, I would have thought the Convent Bakery could have come up with something much better than this.

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Best Bun for Buck

As the price varied so much from bun to bun, we also thought it would be interesting to do a weighted ratio of score divided by price. The winners in that race were as follows:

  1. Coles (43)
  2. Bakers Delight (23.4)
  3. Ferguson Plarre (18.3)
  4. Natural Tucker (17.3)
  5. Babka (16.3)

IMG_2261The Sourdough Issue

We all agreed that the density and heaviness of the sourdough buns put them at a disadvantage in a cold tasting. I’ve got some leftovers, so I plan to freeze them and try them later in the week, toasted and with butter, to see how they come up.

(right: the spittoon. Not my idea. This is what happens when you let your little brothers get involved in this sort of event.)

So, what do you think of the results? Any suggestions for how we could improve the tasting process for next year?

It’s that time of the year again – time to recommence my annual quest for the Holy Grail Hot Cross Bun. (Although according to Coles, I am three months late, as they seem to think Easter starts just after New Year.)

My idea of the perfect hot cross bun is one that has a bit of weight to it. I like ‘em dense, chock full of fruit, with a rich scent of spice and a nice sticky top.

So far this year I’m letting the side down a bit; I’ve only tried Dench and Loafer Bread. In the interests of community service, however, I propose to conduct a more in-depth review of the city’s hot cross bun inventory.

So tell me, gentle readers:
Where do you think the best buns are to be had?
And what in your opinion constitutes a truly heavenly hot-crossie?
More specifically: mixed peel, yay or nay??

UPDATE: The results of the epic bun tasting are in! Read Best Hot Cross Buns in Melbourne: The Tasting.

P1000169 My crazy eat-myself-to-death schedule at the Melbourne Food & Wine festival continues… with tonight’s dinner at MoVida Aqui by guest chef Thomasina Miers, from Wahaca in London.
Ms Miers is the London-based winner of Masterchef UK; she specialises in modern Mexican food. Given the venue (MoVida Aqui – which I haven’t dined at yet, but loved the look and feel) I was thinking it would be sort of a Mexican version of Frank Camorra’s modern Spanish at MoVida.
P1000173 The MFWF event was $110 a head for “5 courses including matched wines”.  J and I attended with the lovely Claire and her b-f-K. (I should add at this point that I had J’s camera and not my own, so my photos are a bit hit-and-miss; I’m guessing Claire’s will be better than mine so you should check her blog too.)
Upon arrival, we discovered that one of the five courses was the plates of hors d’oeuvres that were passed around while we were having drinks and waiting to be seated. The crispbreads with manchego cheese, quince paste and serrano chillies weren’t bad, but the three chilli and octopus tostado with avocado wasn’t great – the octopus pieces were kind of spongy and chewy, so you couldn’t really bite them without having to gulp down the whole piece.
Once seated, our tables had been set with little tumblers of tequila (not the nasty “I did WHAT last night?!!” tequila, but the proper agave kind, according to Miers) and a spicy tomato sangria.
P1000170I refuse to believe that tequila can ever be my friend. Lord knows we’ve all had those nights where we promise ourselves we will NEVER EVER EVER drink tequila again. I had a few sips of mine, and yes it did taste better than whatever crap we used to put in those margaritas at uni parties back in the day, but there was still no way I was going to be embracing tequila as a long lost amigo.
Anyway, moving on. The second course was “chilli water with scallop, cucumber and fresh lime”:
P1000179Or as I liked to call it, “lime with cucumber limes and gratings of lime”. Holy moley this was acidic. I had a couple of sips, felt my tongue shrivelling to the size of a bean and didn’t drink the rest.
Next up, vermicelli pasta cooked with sweet crab and chipotle paste:
P1000181Not what I would consider a Mexican dish, but hey, we’re being modern, so rock on. This was OK; I didn’t love it, but I did like the way the spice of the chipotle kicked in about three minutes after eating the last mouthful.

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The final savoury dish was a slow cooked mutton in an ancho chilli marinade with fresh cabbage salad and chile de arbol salsa:
P1000184  This was served with warm tortillas so that we could make our own little wraps with them, along with the special chilli sauce that was on the table:
P1000185“What’s the chilli sauce like?” asked b-f-K. “Really frickin’ hot,” I promptly replied. And so it was.
Mutton and potatoes, Mexican food?  Hey, I’ve never been to Mexico, what would I know. It’s not what I would expect. The dish was ok, but I didn’t enjoy it as much as the US$4 fish tacos that I had at the ferry terminal in San Francisco. Not as much freshness or zing. Possibly that means I am a Philistine, but there it is.
For dessert there was a Mexican flan with a hint of tequila and poached figs:
P1000189 I couldn’t taste the hint of tequila; but given that, to me, a “hint of tequila” tastes kind of like a hint of imminent hangovers with an undercurrent of projectile vomit, this is probably a good thing.
I liked the flan. I don’t know if there is a difference between a flan and a creme caramel; someone please tell me; but it was creme caramel to me, if a very nice creme caramel. Very rich though, I only ate about half of it.
And finally, with tea and coffee, a plate of chocolate truffles:
P1000191 Think about the chocolatiest chocolate you ever had, and then take half the sugar out, and roll it in more chocolate powder, and you will have an idea of these truffles. As you may know, I’m not that much of a chocolate person, so I just had a nibble.
And that’s pretty much it. Except for MoVida’s very pretty teacups, which deserve their own picture:P1000192 We were served wine throughout, but not exactly what I would call “matched wine” in the sense of my previous MoVida event with Spanish Acquisition – it was pretty much their house wine I think. For $110 I did not think this was particularly good bang for buck and was a bit disappointed.
But we shall press on! Next: rooftop bar art crawl!

Buckle your seatbelts (loosely) over your stretchiest pants, fellow eaters – we’re in for a big couple of weeks, now that the MFWF has kicked off!

My first event was tonight at the Heat Beads Hawker’s Market, held at the Vic Markets. It’s on for the next two nights too; it’s $45 a head if you book online or $48 at the gate, and you get four vouchers per person that you can redeem for a single plate at any of the food stalls. They do have drinks stalls too (Scotchmans Hill wines, James Boags beer, or San Pellegrino water and soft drinks) but you have to pay cash for those. (Which I think is a bit crap – why can’t you redeem a voucher for a beer if you want? And you should take your own bottle of water, as many dishes are quite spicy but you’ll have to pay $3 for each tiny 250ml bottle of Acqua Panna.)

Anyway, I went with regular dining companions Dan, Noush and J. We had booked tickets for the 8.30pm session, but arrived early so had to wait outside for all the 6.30pm session people to leave. As agonising as it was to wait outside with an empty belly and be smelling all those delicious smells, I recommend you do the same, as we got passed at least eight spare vouchers from people leaving who hadn’t used all theirs – win!

There were 12 different stalls, 30 dishes to choose from. We wanted to try as many of them as we could, so we each took turns going up to get a different dish, and then put them all in the middle and shared.

Get ready… for FOOD COMA.

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Pork cheek from Pan Asian. Quite nice flavours but very fatty.
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Balinese chicken from Warung Agus. Mmmyeah not bad.
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Sushi hand rolls from Kenzan @ GPO. These were really quite good.
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Tsukune (chicken meatballs) from Sake & Grill Maedaya. Not bad, not terribly exciting.
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Pho from Co Do. Loved this. So fresh tasting.
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pho accompaniments
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Beef bulgogi from Hallah. Not great. A bit cold and chewy – needed to be cooked fresher to order.
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Beef vindaloo from Chilli India. Really tasty.
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Sichuan BBQ (prawns, pork, chicken) from Dainty Sichuan. Dish of the night for me, especially the skewer prawns, but very very spicy. “I fell into the burning ring of fire…”
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Funny little skewer things from Dainty Sichuan – tofu, fish ball, some kind of sausage. Didn’t like these. Stick to the BBQ skewers.
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Cold noodle salad from Dainty Sichuan. At least I hope it was supposed to be cold.
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I don’t actually know what this was or where it was from. Curry of some kind. Food blogger f
ail :(
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Ikan panggang (grilled fish in banana leaf) from Laksa Me. Lovely. Great flavours and the fish was cooked perfectly.
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Okonomiyaki and candied potatoes (?) from Sake and Grill Maedaya. It was OK. Getting pretty full by this point so only had a tiny taste.
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Fried dumplings from Dumpling King. Why on earth did they not have steamed ones? Boo. I skipped these.
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LEFT: BBQ chicken sticks with green papaya salad from Cookie. Chicken sticks were overcooked and tough, flavours quite nice though.

ABOVE: also from Cookie, a sort of seafood pancake thing with mussels. The pancake was very gelatinous, the texture gave me the willies a bit.

 

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This was a banana fritter with icecream from Dumpling King that did not last long enough to be photographed. As you can see, we liked it.
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Green tea pancake; I’m not sure which stall this came from, but it was awful. Cold, chewy, ick.
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LEFT: black sticky rice pudding from Warung Agus. It was runnier than other black sticky rice dishes I’ve had before, and we didn’t love the flavour – everyone had a tiny mouthful then left the rest.

The event wasn’t too crowded, although maybe that’s just because it was the first night (and a Monday). In any case it was easy to get served, except for at Dainty Sichuan where there was a long line all night. Don’t think “I’ll go back later when the line’s not so long”, just suck it up and stand there, because that line ain’t gettin’ any shorter.

We all had a great time, and stuffed ourselves to the gills. Highly recommend you go, it’s good fun.

More info: http://www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/the-festival/a-focus-on-melbourne-events/heat-beads-reg-hawkers-market

NEXT: the Thomasina Miers dinner at MoVida!

City Wine Shop, 159 Spring St, Melbourne. (03) 9654 6657; www.citywineshop.net.au. M-F 7am-late, Sat/Sun 9am-late. 

City Wine Shop has been open for a few years now, and is the sort of place that’s so quietly good, somehow it ends up being the answer to many of these sorts of dining/drinking dilemmas:

“Where can I meet such-and-such for a decent coffee?”

“Where can we go for a nice casual lunch with a good glass of wine?”

“Where can we go for drinks after work, and maybe a few snacks?”

“Where in the city can I pick up a nice bottle of wine to take to that dinner party tonight?”

IMG_2178Part of the reason why I end up there so often is because it’s so diverse in its offerings. Not in a trying-to-be-too-many-things sort of way, mind you. It’s like they said, “Hey, let’s open a boutique wine store in the city. Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a spot for punters to sit and have a glass of the wine? And perhaps they might get hungry, so let’s offer some nice bar snacks. But also some more substantial food, in case they want lunch. Oh, and they’ll probably want a coffee before they leave, so we’ll do coffee as well.”   It all just flows and fits together.

First, the wine shop part. Inside there’s a lovely wine wall (left), where you can browse the range of Australian and international wines. The staff are very helpful if you need some advice on what to pick; prices aren’t Dan Murphys but are reasonable.

Once you’ve picked out your wine, you can either take it home, or let them open it for you ($15 corkage) and drink it sitting inside at the bar, or outside at the little tables.

They also have a by-the-glass wine list that changes daily, from around $10-$16 a glass. There’s generally some pretty interesting stuff on there; not like most places, where they might have some good stuff by the bottle but the list by the glass is boring as bat-shit.  There’s also a list of bar snacks – olives, sliced meats, etc – if you want just a little something to munch.

One fine sunny Sunday, Dan, Noush, J and I found ourselves, yet again, with “City Wine Shop” coming up as the answer to “where shall we go for lunch”. We sat outside with a bottle of Chablis and ordered some food. Dan and I both had the chicken schnitzel with Italian coleslaw ($24):

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Such a simple dish, but they use excellent produce and execute it perfectly. The chicken is a whole bone-in breast, with a crunchy herb crumb on the outside (no packet breadcrumbs here) and juicy, juicy meat on the inside.

The coleslaw is zingy and light, with a bit of parmesan and basil mixed through; I think maybe some fennel too? Anyway, delicious.

Noush and J both ordered the seared tuna nicoise ($25):

IMG_2123 which arrived looking less like a salad and more like a deconstructed cascade of chargrilled tuna, roasted baby potatoes, olives, beans, a poached egg and some white anchovies. I stole a few of J’s beans and they had a zippy, creamy aioli type dressing.

As meals with Dan often do, a “light lunch” somehow morphed into “sure, let’s have cheese AND dessert”; so we ordered some Delice de Bourgogne, plus a blue cheese that I’ve forgotten what it was:

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The cheeses come with a selection of sliced fresh bread, lavosh and water crackers. The Delice arrives with some quince paste, fresh green apple slices and walnuts. Oh, I do like cheese with proper accompaniments. The blue cheese, meanwhile, arrived with a rather intriguing ball-shaped pastry tart:

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which turns out to be a rather marvellous little currant pie, encased in flaky shortcrust. The dark fruity curranty filling was amazing with the blue cheese.

And finally, chocolate fondant with icecream (sorry, didn’t write down the price of this, but their desserts are generally $12-$14):

IMG_2129 This was baked to order and arrived scalding-hot on the table; I took a mouthful too soon and burnt the roof of my mouth. Yeow!! (Note to self: patience is a virtue.)  I think this was the
only dish I didn’t love on the day, although possibly that opinion could have been skewed by aforementioned mouth-burning incident, and also the fact that I don’t really go much on chocolate desserts in general.

Staff are pretty good here, they know their stuff when it comes to the wines and are generally very efficient, although a bit more smiley-ness wouldn’t go astray. 

The only other thing that I could possibly pick out as a negative is that the round outdoor tables are VERY tiny (it was a real squish to get four main course plates on), and the stools don’t have backs on them so they can get a bit uncomfortable to sit on after a while. But that’s about it. In every other way I adore this place, and will no doubt return next time I need a nice bottle of wine. Or a glass of wine. Or a coffee, or a bit of lunch…

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