Bar Idda is a Sicilian restaurant that took over 132 Lygon St from Rumi, back in June. (Incidentally I’m visiting Rumi in its new digs this Friday, so stay tuned.)  It’s a tiny little rustic space with tables wedged in tightly… so tightly, in fact, that not long after sitting down with a glass of prosecco, an irate diner made a noisy exit by knocking over my glass with her bum. (Rather than apologising for smashing the glass and its contents all over our table, she yelled at me “the tables are TOO CLOSE TOGETHER!!”. Grumpy cow.)

Anyway, once the staff had apologised profusely for Mrs Grumpy, mopped up the broken glass from the table and fetched me a new drink, we got to eating. The menu is loosely arranged into small sharing dishes or starters ($7-$10.50), slightly larger mains ($14-$23.50), and side dishes ($6-$10).

We started with the marinated fried sardines and salami with smoked cheese:

Bar Idda

Bar Idda

Really really simple, but nicely done. I liked the sardines especially.

Next, the mains. These were very authentically Italian, in that your main dish will be just the meat alone on a plate – you do need to order sides. We had the pistachio crumbed lamb cutlets:
Bar Idda
and the “Iaddini Nuri” – chicken braised with bitter chocolate, fennel seeds and cloves:
Bar Idda
and the pork and fennel sausage:
Bar Idda
Mmm… that’s a turdy looking sausage. Fortunately it tasted a lot better than it looks! It was very fennel-y though – lots of fennel seeds all the way through – possibly a few too many in my opinion.

The lamb cutlets were nicely cooked, and tasty, but nothing spectacular. The chicken was the most interesting of the three mains; the spiced chocolate sauce is the sort of flavour that I would usually associate with South American cuisine, rather than Italian. Mind you, I say “interesting”, not mindblowing. Now that I’ve tried it, I’d order something different next time.

For side dishes, we had the “frittedda” –  broad beans, asparagus and peas tossed with crunchy breadcrumbs:
Bar Idda
and the smoky red peppers with mint:
Bar Idda
Looooved the frittedda – such a yummy clean fresh-tasting spring dish. To think I used to hate broad beans when I was a kid! We didn’t love the peppers so much though – Mull announced that they were “cold hot food”, meaning that it was a dish that would have tasted better if it was served warm. I am inclined to agree.

I was still a bit peckish after all this – the dishes are small-ish, and I’d walked home from work and then from home to Lygon St, so I’d worked up quite the appetite. Decided to go for dessert instead of more savouries.

The dessert menu is pretty limited – they just have cassata, affogato, cannoli, biscotti and gelato. I went for the chocolate cannoli. Which turned out to be The Best Cannoli I Ever Had.
Bar Idda
OK, so it doesn’t look that exciting in the photo. But trust me, it was awesome. The custardy filling was chocolatey without being too rich, and the pastry casing was just the right thickness to resist my bite for just a moment… before cracking open to ooze chocolatey goodness everywhere… droooooool. In fact it was so good I had to order another one. Oops.

Drinks! I forgot the drinks. The wine list is very short, and mostly Italian. We had a half litre of the house red and it was passable. They also make some fun Italian aperitif cocktails – the boys both had a Sicilian Spritzer (with Rosso Antico, Cinzano Bianco and gassosa). Bit of a girly drink but the perfect thing for a Friday afternoon before dinner.

The meal came to about $150 for the three of us, including drinks. So pretty good value for money.  The tables are indeed, as Mrs Grumpy pointed out, very close together, and it can get quite noisy in there.

All in all I’d say Bar Idda is a bit overhyped for what it is. It’s authentic Italian, but very low key. Don’t go there expecting it to rock your world, but for a nice casual meal I’d certainly recommend it.

Bar Idda on Urbanspoon

Bande a Part is a new-ish pizza joint on Nicholson St. It’s named after a Jean-Luc Godard film and is the sister restaurant of Pizza Meine Liebe (“PML”) in Northcote (whose pizzas I love, but whose stubborn booking policies do my head in).

I called on a Friday to book for that evening, and was relieved to discover that, unlike PML, they were going to let me book for whatever time I liked. We turned up at 7pm to find the place barely half full – I’m not sure exactly when they opened but obviously the word’s not out yet.

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The six of us decided to order a small pizza each and share, so as to be able to try as many different toppings as we could. (The pizzas are $12-$16 for a small, $16.50-$22 for a large.)

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Buffalo Soldier – tomato, buffalo mozzarella, basil, prosciutto. A PML favourite.

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Madame Pipi – mozzarella, pumpkin, porcini, rocket, fetta. I don’t know that pumpkin really belongs on a pizza.

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Haus Special – tomato, buffalo mozzarella, porcini, oregano, anchovies, olives. Like PML, their olives are not pitted, so be careful not to break your teeth.

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Moussaka – tomato, potato, eggplant, red onions, meatballs, mascarpone. Oooohh this one was gooooood.

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Karina – tomato, goat’s cheese, pesto, speck, chargrilled peppers. Loved this one too.

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This was one of the specials – Four Corners or Four Seasons or something like that. Tomato, plus a corner each of speck, porcini, olives and artichokes.

The pizzas were really good. Definitely among the best I’ve had in Melbourne. The bases are lovely and thin with the right amount of crispiness; the toppings are all very good quality and just the right amounts; and the menu has enough different topping options that I don’t think I’d get bored with this as my weekly pizza fix.

As a diligent blogger, of course I had to try dessert. (I live to serve.)  We tried the strawberry and chocolate dessert pizza:
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Dessert pizza sounds gross, but really it’s more like a tart. This one was quite nice, although to be honest the combination of dark chocolate and strawberries doesn’t do it for me. The others loved it though. I prefer the banana and honey one that they have at PML but didn’t see it on the menu here.

We also tried chocolate pudding:
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which had a delicious gooey centre, and the scoop of icecream had a heart of berries – nomnomnom. We did also try the Nutella calzone, which for some reason I didn’t get a picture of… but basically it’s a big blob of Nutella baked in a parcel of dough. One mouthful was enough for me, it’s VERY rich. It came with pistachio icecream, I think plain vanilla would have been better.

The wine list is short but well priced. We had a couple of bottles of the 2008 Moorooduc Devil Bend Creek pinot noir, which was very drinkable for $36 a bottle. I *think* it may also be BYO, but don’t quote me on that.

The service was friendly and prompt early in the night, but got progressively more curt and elusive as the restaurant filled up – we had to try and grab someone on the way past when we wanted a second bottle of wine, and then again when we wanted to see a dessert menu.  (I visited again with J. about a week later, this time at 9.30pm on a Thursday, when they only had a couple of tables in, and once again they were friendly and efficient.  So either they were understaffed for a busy night on the Friday, or they’re not good with stress.)

As for decor and atmosphere, Bande a Part does not have PML’s lo-fi Northcote hipster too-cool-for-school scene.  Don’t get me wrong, it ain’t La Porchetta, but it’s not stuff white people like – it’s more of a low key family vibe. Don’t come here if you want to Be Seen – but definitely come if you like good pizza, as it’s a helluva lot easier to get a table.

Bande a Part on Urbanspoon

I do like these new cafes that are sprouting up in the middle of residential streets, where the milk bars used to be. There’s Mitte in North Fitzroy, Red Door Corner Store in Northcote, and my latest outing was to Squirrel Cafe in Clifton Hill.

It’s on the corner of Groom and Noone Streets, and proudly displays its milk-bar origins:
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Inside, it lacks the slick design of Mitte or Red Door, but is very homely (in a good way) – and best of all, we got a seat immediately, at 10.30am on a Saturday! (On the way home we drove past Mixed Business, which was so beyond full there were at least ten punters milling about outside waiting for a table.)

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We ordered coffees straight away, which came within about 5 minutes. They serve Jasper coffee. It was reasonably good.

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We perused the menu, which makes a note of the fact that they use as many local suppliers as possible, and also try and use organic, free range and fair trade. So they get some good enviropoints.

I ordered the “Acorn Porridge”, which came with plain yoghurt, granola, fruit compote and Mallee honey. I don’t usually order porridge – I do like it, but it’s always pretty boring – but I saw another customer with it and it looked tasty, so I thought I’d give it a go.

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Pretty good! Certainly the most interesting porridge I’ve had. The only annoying thing was that there were chunks of cinnamon and lots of cloves in the compote that I had to keep picking out.

J. had the eggs on Turkish bread with tomato, avocado and lemon, plus a side of hash browns:

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The hash browns were the frozen kind you get in the supermarket, bit disappointing. The avocado was all mashed up and runny, so the whole thing was sort of like breakfast guacamole. I think it would have been a lot better with slices of avocado; and maybe sourdough toast instead of the Turkish might have given it a bit more texture too.

They had some cute retro sweets there, including chocolate crackles, honey joys and rocky road. Very primary-school-fete! We didn’t try any but they did look nice.

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Staff were friendly and efficient. Overall I would say Squirrel Cafe is pleasant in a rustic sort of way, but it’s a little rough around the edges to be a strong weekend-brunch contender.

Squirrel Cafe on Urbanspoon

Lunch. 10 courses of tapas. 13 different Spanish wines. MoVida, the Spanish Acquisition and Rathdowne Cellars teamed up for this special event, and what an awesome lunch it was.

MoVida was packed to the gills with excited foodies and booze hags – the whole restaurant had been booked out for it. At the door we were greeted with a glass of Cava, 2006 Raventos i Blanc “L’Hereu” Reserva Brut. “Oh that’s nice,” I thought, “they’re starting us off with a full glass before getting into the tastings.” Little did I know that the full glass was a sign of things to come…

No sooner had we taken our seats than suddenly our glasses were being refilled with another Cava – this time the 2006 Raventos i Blanc “L’Hereu de Nit” Rosé. Absolutely delicious too! This was teamed with the very first tapa, boqueron (pickled white anchovy pincho):

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

Yum yum yum. I do love Spanish anchovies. And next up – yay – more anchovies! This time it was anchoa, hand filleted Cantabrian anchovy on a crouton with smoked tomato sorbet. Always one of my favourites at MoVida. The matched wine for this dish was the Delgado Zuletta “La Goya” Manzanilla sherry, a very dry sherry that tastes to me a bit like sea air, but went beautifully with the food.

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

So at this point we’ve already had three wines. And not 20ml “tastes” either. They just keep topping ‘em up…
…and then suddenly there are another three wines for tasting in front of us. The 2008 Orden Tercera Verdejo was very bright and fruity, a bit too fruity and sav-blanc-ish for me. The 2008 Pazo San Mauro Albariño was a little drier, I liked it. And then the 2008 Capçanes “Mas Donis” Rosat de Garnacha – I adored this, it remained probably my favourite wine of the day. (I think I may have ordered some. Maybe. The end of the day was a little fuzzy.)

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

We drank these three wines with la trucha del océano, cured ocean trout with beetroot and horseradish cream; pulpo, slow cooked octopus with potato; and de ternera con atún, braised veal cheek with yellow fin tuna and piquillo pepper.

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

Five tapas and six wines down. We’re only halfway through. Press on!

Onto the reds now. I didn’t finish my whites/rosé in time so had to pour the remainders in the spittoon – the shame! The first three reds were the 2008 Artazuri Garnacha; 2007 Telmo Rodriguez “Gaba do Xil” Mencia; and 2008 Telmo Rodriguez “LZ” Tempranillo. They were teamed with two raciones (= larger sharing style tapas): confit green asparagus with slow cooked eggs and jamon Serrano; and slow roast baby goat. I really dug the asparagus – would make an excellent brunch dish!

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.
MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

It was about this point that things start getting messy. So messy in fact that I got a picture of the next three red wines, but not the next two food dishes.

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

The final bracket of reds were all tempranillos from Rioja – quite intense, very dark in colour: 2005 Remelluri Reserva Tempranillo, 2006 Artadi “Vinas de Gain” Tempranillo, and finally 2005 Roda “1” Reserva Tempranillo. I confess I do not remember a whole lot of detail about these wines. (I know, I know… I’ve let you all down… I am an embarrassment to booze hags and food bloggers everywhere.) I do however taking my first sniff of the Roda “1” and thinking “oh HELLO!!” Very very beautiful nose on it. But so it should have for $145 a bottle.

There were two matched dishes with this final red bracket: menestra, tomato braised spring vegetables with jamon Serrano; and carne de wagyu, braised wagyu intercostals with Jerusalem artichokes. The wagyu was delicious.

Executive chef Frank Camorra and his head chef David then came out to say a few words about their food:
MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

I have to say though, this wasn’t the best food I’ve had at MoVida. Everything was nice enough, but without the “oh-my-god-oh-oh-OH”-ness of the cecina (air cured wagyu with truffle foam and poached egg). Where was the Pedro Ximenez braised beef cheek? the quail, jamon and cheese croquettes? the scallops with jamon and potato foam?

But I’m getting ahead of myself – we haven’t even had dessert yet! Which was a chocolate fudgey thing with olve oil sorbet and fennel torta, served with a glass of Sanchez Romate Moscatel “Ambrosia” sherry. (Pardon the pic – my sorbet melted while I was busy gasbagging with the very lovely Claire (from Melbourne Gastronome) and Anna aka Eatnik. And Claire’s dad, who is so exactly like my dad it’s hilarious.)

MoVida Spanish Acquisition Lunch by you.

Eh… I don’t go much on chocolate desserts, so it was a bit wasted on me.

Speaking of wasted… oh my god. Thirteen glasses of wine in four hours?! And then they gave us the wine order forms, the cheeky buggers. I know I ordered a few bottles but I don’t entirely remember what and how many, so I guess I’ll find out when I get a call from Rathdowne Cellars! I’m hoping I ordered the pink Cava (2008 Raventos i Blanc “L’Hereu de Nit” Rosé) and the 2008 Capçanes “Mas Donis” Rosat de Garnacha.

All in all it was a great lunch. Extraordinarily good bang for buck too, at $120 a head. Hopefully they’ll do it again next year – make sure you’re on the mailing lists for either the Rathdowne Cellars or Spanish Acquisition so you don’t miss out!

Pearl Oyster is a cafe in either Preston, Thornbury or Northcote – depending on whether you ask the White Pages, Urbanspoon or Threethousand.com.au. Wherever it is, it’s one of the recent breed of suburban hipster Nanna’s-kitchen-chic brunch-crowd cafes that are sprouting up all over the northern suburbs – think along the lines of Mixed Business, Red Door Cafe, APTE and Palomino.

We decided to venture there for brunch at about 10.30am on Saturday. Pearl Oyster is a fair bit larger than the others mentioned above, but even so we still had to wait a few minutes to get a seat, and the first available were at the bar that overlooks the kitchen. It was pretty noisy over the clanging pans and hissing coffee machine, but hey, at least it’s a seat.

Pearl Oyster

The waiter brought us menus and two water glasses right away (although no water), and took our coffee orders – they use Coffee Supremo’s organic Fair Trade coffee, FYI. We were sitting right in front of the cakes, which looked very tasty:
Pearl Oyster

The menus are very cute, presented inside old school textbooks:
Pearl Oyster
Pearl Oyster

… however we both were tempted by the specials board – I ordered the special French toast, and J. ordered the “Upper East Side”.

And then we waited. And waited.

Our coffees took 21 minutes to arrive. (I know this from the time stamp on my camera.) I don’t know what you’re like in the mornings, but I get pretty antsy and cranky if I haven’t yet eaten anything or had any caffeine. After 21 minutes sitting there hungry and waiting and looking over a noisy kitchen and watching everybody else’s food go out, I was about to turn into the Incredible Hulk. I don’t mind a bit of a wait for food so long as I can at least get a coffee.

Pearl Oyster

The tiny kitchen and 2-group coffee machine were flat out, so it’s not like the wait was due to slacking off. I think the problem is simply that their kitchen and coffee capacities are not enough to serve the number of seats adequately. Of course, cafe owners don’t want to have to turn punters away, so it would seem that the more seating the better… but unless they have the capacity to serve all those seats, they’re not actually doing more covers, they’re just making them all wait longer.

Anyway, the food also eventually arrived (33 minutes after ordering). Fortunately it was worth the wait. My French toast was made from thick sliced brioche and came with mandarin curd, stewed raspberries, thick cream and pistachios:
Pearl Oyster

The curd was lovely and tangy and so were the raspberries – it was pretty intense and very sweet but I really liked it. Sugar buzz!!

J.’s Upper East Side was sourdough rye toast, spread with cream cheese and layered with smoked salmon, dill and caperberries, with lemon on the side:
Pearl Oyster
Again, really good. Very high quality ingredients and a nice simple dish.

Overall, Pearl Oyster had really good food and pretty good coffee; but I couldn’t recommend it for a weekend brunch, unless you have more patience than I do. I’d definitely return, but on a weekday when it’s not so busy.

Pearl Oyster on Urbanspoon