Yeah, yeah, so I’m probably the last blogger in Melbourne to finally review Coda. It only opened a couple of months ago but is already So Hot Right Now that it’s next to impossible to get into.

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I booked dinner for 3 on a Sunday evening, about three weeks prior. The day before, they called to confirm my “booking for two people”. Uhhh, no – three please! They ummed and ahhed as to whether or not they could now fit us in, but eventually agreed to change the booking to three.

The three of us rocked up on Sunday night. Can you guess what happened? Yup – booking wasn’t changed, and now they had nowhere for us to sit. They asked us to wait for 10-15 minutes, but there was nowhere to wait apart from standing up in the foyer. The sommelier asked us if we wanted to order drinks while we waited, which we did, but only discovered at the end of the night that these drinks were marked as 100% discount on the bill. Nice gesture, but they would have got more mileage out of it and cheered us up more by telling us at the time!

Anyway, finally we got to sit down and take a look at the menu. As you’ve no doubt heard already, the menu is a combination of Asian and European inspired sharing-style “tapas” dishes. I’d already read a lot about the comparative weakness of the Euro dishes so we decided to stick to the Asian ones.

When we came to order, two of the dishes (including the signature Coda roll) were sold out. Gaahhh! The waiter then suggested that perhaps he could put together a menu for us, and I’m always happy to roll the dice when it comes to tapas style meals, so we agreed.

First up was the famously misspelled “beetle” (ha!) leaf, with crab, galangal, roasted chilli and lime. Few too many fried onions on the top but otherwise tasty and zippy.
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Next was the very pretty citrus-cured kingfish with fresh wasabi and pickled radish. What a great combo of flavours, with the tart-sweet citrus and spicy wasabi! And it didn’t overpower the fish either.
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Next, the nifty sugarcane prawns – minced prawn wrapped like a Dagwood dog around a stick of sugar cane and rolled in crispy noodles, with a dipping sauce of hot mint and chilli. I loved the flavours, and the presentation was innovative, but I found the texture a bit odd – there was none of the prawn’s original texture left in the mince, it was more like a squidgy prawn paste.
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Next we had the Hanoi style crispy rice paper roll with lettuce and nuoc cham dipping sauce. Meh… this was ok but pretty much like every other rice paper roll you’ve ever had, only fried.
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Then there was the roasted Coffin Bay scallop with pearl tapioca and salmon caviar. I don’t remember eating this (my visit was nearly 3 weeks ago now) – I would have forgotten it altogether if it wasn’t for the photo evidence. So that’s probably a good summation of the dish.
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Next, the “quail lettuce delight” – i.e. a quail san choi bow. Very tasty. Flower Drum does a better version of this, but the Flower Drum version ain’t $5 each.
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Our last small dish was the seven spiced cuttlefish. This was my least favourite dish of the night, and the only thing I didn’t finish my share of. I found it too salty and I didn’t love the cuttlefish texture either – little bit too thick and a tiny bit rubbery.
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The next thing to arrive on the table was the pork belly. Ohhhhhh, the pork belly. Hell this was good, and I don’t usually like pork belly. The crispy crackling! The soft tender meat! The gelatinous caramelised goodness!
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The pork belly is not on the menu. I asked our waiter about it and he said they order in whole suckling pigs for the pig terrine, but they save the belly and cook it up when they’re done making the terrine. So, if you go, ask nicely for pork belly – I thought it was best dish of the night.

Finally, we had the yellow duck curry with lotus root. If we hadn’t just had orgasmic pork belly, I probably would have been more excited about this – it was really good but just couldn’t stack up to the pig.
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The service, after the initial booking stuff-up, was good. Casual, and not always super efficient, but certainly enthusiastic – all the staff seem genuinely excited by the food and keen to make sure you have a good evening. Travis the sommelier was very helpful with wine choices to match the food – no simple task given the powerful flavour combinations in the Asian dishes.

Coda seems like it ought to be a cheap night out, with many of the small dishes under $10; however one does find oneself carried away, and before you know it you’ve had ten different dishes and three bottles of wine, and spent well over $100 a head. (Restraint: not my middle name.)  The three of us all had a great time though, and I’d definitely return.

Coda on Urbanspoon

I was born and bred in Launceston and my dad still lives there, so I go down for a visit several times a year.

Given that Launceston is a smallish town of about 68 000, the eating options are surprisingly good. Fine dining establishments Fee & Me and Stillwater have won a number of national awards between them, and I’ve had excellent meals at both. On this trip though, we visited:

Mud Bar & Restauranthttp://www.mudbar.com.au/
This is a great spot on a sunny day, down in the Seaport district by the river. They serve drinks and a light snack menu all day, with more substantial meals at lunch and dinner. Our lunch there was enjoyable – particularly the Taste Plate – but the service can be laid-back to the point of somnambulance. We had to get up and go find our waiter when we wanted to order coffee!
032Mud Taste Plate – delicious!

033Grilled quail

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Black Cow Bistrohttp://www.blackcowbistro.com.au/
Same owners as Stillwater, and set up in the old butcher’s shop where the sadly-defunct Luck’s used to be. As you can probably guess from the name, the menu revolves around beef, but in more of a Rockpool sort of way than a steakhouse. After our massive lunch at Mud, we weren’t super hungry so shared the venison with sides of grilled field mushrooms and lemony broccoli with almonds. The venison was cooked absolutely perfectly, not the least bit tough, and had a delicious flavour. Service here was very professional.
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Blue Cafe Bar - 2-4 Invermay Rd, Invermay ph (03) 6334 3133
When I last visited Blue Cafe Bar, it was pretty abysmal – service was shocking and the food only passable. I’m happy to say this time it was a lot better. You still can’t be in too much of a hurry – you will get your coffee, eventually – but the food is good. We had breakfast here with my dad and his partner, and all the meals were pretty good.
Dad had the “big breakfast”, which wasn’t that big, but nice ingredients and well cooked:
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L had eggs with pancetta, asparagus and hollandaise:
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J had the vanilla rice porridge:
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and I had the polenta fruit loaf which came with honeycomb and fig jam:
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Not bad for 24 hours in Tasmania. Oh and we also stopped by the Tasmanian Gourmet Sauce Company on the way back to the airport, and spent far too much money on jam. They have the best raspberry jam ever (so I got the huge 1kg jar).

OK, so this was supposed to be a review of Quay, which I’ve been itching to visit for months. Alas, couldn’t convince the partner to go for such an expensive lunch this time. (Next time, Gadget… next time…)
So, upon the recommendations of my ex-Sydneysider brother and Time Out Sydney, we wound up at the Bentley instead.

We rocked up at around 12.30pm on a Friday – I called first, expecting it to be busy given the Time Out award. “Yes, we should be able to fit you in,” they said… sure enough you could have shot a cannon through the place with no fear of hitting anyone. (We were the only table till one other pair arrived about 1.30pm, and that was it till we left around 2.30pm.  What the?? Is the GFC hitting Sydney dining more than Melbourne?)

We chose the awarded $50 “tapas” lunch menu. It was supposed to be 10 courses but I only counted seven. (Perhaps they were counting some of the components as multiple courses? I don’t think a piece of jamon counts as a course, personally. Mind you, seven courses for $50 is still decent value.)

The first course arrived promptly: Serrano jamon wrapped around two forky skewer things, and a spoonful of kingfish ceviche with pickled daikon and yuzu mayonnaise:
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The jamon was great, although I guess there’s not much you could do to stuff jamon up.   The ceviche I found a bit too acidic, I thought the vinegar overpowered the fish a little. My partner liked it though.

Next up we had a smoked eel parfait, with seaweed, white soy cream and soy crisps:
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A beautiful looking dish, I loved the presentation. It did however taste exactly like kabana (or cabanossi, depending on where you grew up) – not unpleasant, but very reminiscent of 80s hors d’oeuvres. Just add toothpick, cheddar cube and a pickled onion.

Next we had teeny little baby squids with squid ink rice and green chilli:
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The little baby squids (how fiddly must they have been to clean?!) still had their long tentacles attached, and were very juicy, not chewy at all. Personally I didn’t love the squid ink rice and the green chilli together though. The rice was sort of oily and rich, while the chilli was very tart and brisk – usually contrast is good but in this case I found it a bit clashy, for my tastes anyway.

Next up, I think this was one of the “two course” courses – a cucumber and herb gazpacho, with a piece of chorizo wrapped in crispy potato on a blob of harissa:
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Loved the gazpacho flavour, although I thought it could have used a teensy bit more salt so that it didn’t get drowned out by the flavour punch of the chorizo with harissa.

We then move on to the slow-cooked egg with pork bubble and pea soil:
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Oh. My. God. I absolutely loved this. Apparently they cook the egg in a water bath for an hour and a half at 60 degrees, which gives it a completely bizarre but intriguing slow gooey texture. It looks mostly like a soft-poached egg, but when you cut into the yolk it doesn’t run all over the plate – it just oooooooozes. The “pork bubble” is a few strips of very light and bubbly pork crackling; and then there’s the bed of Kermit-green pea “soil”, which adds just enough freshness to an otherwise quite rich dish.

The final savoury course was a pressed lamb shoulder with a tagine sauce and chickpeas with dill, accompanied by chickpea chips:
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This was delicious, the lamb was slow cooked to the falling-off-the-bone stage and went beautifully with the Moroccan-spiced sauce. I also loved the chickpea chips, and got to eat my partner’s as well – he didn’t like them, thought they tasted like Chiko Rolls. (They did, a little bit – but I secretly love Chiko Rolls.)

We then asked for a break to finish our wine before dessert; we had a bottle of 2006 Punch chardonnay from the Yarra Valley, which I hadn’t tried before but really enjoyed. I found it very refined and elegant. (Note to self: try more Punch wines.) I had wanted to order the Cullen chardonnay, but couldn’t bring myself to pay $144 for a wine that’s $60 at Winestar – I guess that’s Sydney wine list pricing for you though.

Dessert was a scoop of chocolate ganache, sprinkled with salt and surrounded with orange oil.
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I don’t usually go much on chocolate desserts, but the orange made it very refreshing.

Service was attentive, as you’d expect when you’re the only table. The waitress however was not able to give a wine recommendation, and instead fetched the sommelier (who did arrive promptly at the table, and recommended the Punch, so thumbs up).

The Bentley advertises its menu as “tapas”. I don’t think it really is. Tapas should be a bit more snacky and share-able, and probably a bit more rustic (and a bit more Spanish, come to that). The Bentley is more like fine dining, albeit a more casual style than my recent degustation adventures (Attica and The Royal Mail). That said, it’s really very good value for what it is, even if the wine list is a bit pricey (but that’s Sydney for you).

Bentley Restaurant and Bar on Urbanspoon

Boire - 92 Smith St, Collingwood. http://www.boire.net.au/

After reading about Boire just about everywhere that matters (including The Age Epicure and Gourmet Traveller), I was desperate to try this new French wine bar.  It’s just a few doors down from Gigibaba, which I adore, so I had high hopes.

I rocked up at about 7.15pm on a Friday night, expecting it to be chockers after the hype – but no, there were only two tables taken (and EVERY SINGLE PERSON in there was female, which was just weird). I thought maybe the empty tables were reserved for imminent bookings… but no, they were just empty, as I was told to sit anywhere I liked. Water in nice wine glasses was brought out immediately.

There are no printed wine lists – it’s all written in chalk on the black-painted right hand wall. (Black walls used as blackboards = So Hot Right Now. I think it must be council regulations to include them in any new cafe/bistro fitout.)  I like this idea in theory, but they’ve written it so big that I have to get up from my seat and walk from one end of the room to the other to be able to see both the reds AND the whites. Might be a good idea to have a printout of the day’s wines on each table.

For a chalkboard wine list, there’s not much by the glass – about four reds and four whites, and a champagne. They are not cheap glasses either, starting at $11 with the average about $14-16. I expected it all to be French, given that they are puritanical about other aspects of French authenticity (e.g. you can’t have milk in your coffee); but no, there were Macedon Ranges and New Zealand wines on the list.

I ordered the champagne (at $16 a glass for an obscure house). It arrived already poured. This is a small thing, but I think a wine bar with table service ought to pour the wines at the table. Particularly a $16 glass of wine.

We were planning to have dinner elsewhere but were getting peckish so had a look at the food options, also written on the blackboard-wall. The only snack-ish things were walnuts and cheese (non-specific blue or washed-rind), so we ordered those. The walnuts arrived, in their shells, in a bowl with a nut-cracker:

My partner loved this, he was cracking noisily away having a merry old time. For me, if I order a bowl of nuts, it’s probably because I’m hungry… and I get really cranky when I’m hungry, particularly if I can’t get at the food quickly! Pistachios are one thing, but I did find the walnuts frustrating.

My other problem with Boire is the decor. Something is not quite right about the space. It looks like a restaurant, but definitely isn’t one – there’s not enough food on the menu (two entrees, two mains, two desserts) – and somehow it’s too empty, not cosy enough to settle in for a few drinks. Maybe it’s too big, maybe it’s the lighting, maybe it’s the tables and chairs, maybe it’s the fact that the bar counter is very small and right up the back. All I know is that we were ready to leave after one drink.

I think Boire has a lot of potential and I really wanted to love it; I love the concept of a simple and rustic French wine bar. I’ll be interested to give it another try in a couple of months to see if it’s any different.